Installing a New Shower Unit
An effective shower setup requires cautious preparation and a great deal of work. Most of the times, you will need to do 3 types of tasks: framing walls, setting up the plumbing, and completing walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you should decide on the kind of shower that you want to set up. It is important to ascertain whether the picked shower is capable of coping with specific systems and can regulate a safe level of water through the boiler. Many shower systems nowadays are created to be versatile to various water pressures (such as saved warm water and cold mains).
It is likewise crucial to take into account the water pressure and the planning of the piping and drainage for the shower
Different Kinds of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The hose pipe and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower system can be connected to the bath tap according to your requirement, and the water temperature level can be adjusted through the taps. Push-on mixers are inexpensive and extremely simple to set up. However, although the hose connection is easy, it is easily dislodged. Additionally, it is troublesome to adjust the temperature level.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The hose and spray of this type of shower are combined with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature can be changed through the bath taps. It is an extremely low-cost option and no additional pipes is included. However, the bath/shower mixers also suffer from bothersome temperature level control options.
Manual Mixer: The hose and spray of a manual mixer shower unit are a part of the wall unit and the hot and cold water products are connected to a single valve The temperature level and pressure of the water are controlled through either one or a range of knobs (in more expensive showers). Although temperature level control is a lot easier in manual mixer types, they are more expensive than the previously discussed mixers. They also require extra pipes of cold and hot supply of water pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer: The hose and spray of this shower type belong of the wall unit and the cold and hot water supplies are connected to a single valve here too. It is complete with a built-in stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature level and to prevent it from becoming too hot. One of the greatest advantages of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes hassle-free temperature level control. However, it is the most costly of the various mixer choices.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single unit containing a powerful electrical pump https://numberfields.asu.edu/NumberFields/team_display.php?teamid=60444 that is capable of changing both the water pressure and temperature. This kind of shower can be fitted if there is water supply from a cold water tank and a warm water cylinder. A power shower makes the adjustment of both pressure and temperature level easy. On the other hand, it disagrees for water heated up directly by the shower or where the water is supplied by a combination boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electric shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats the water electrically. It is essential to keep in mind that for this shower type to be installed, the mains pressure needs to be a minimum of 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The system allows the temperature and pressure to be adjusted by means of a knob. Designs with temperature stabilisers are much better as they stay untouched by other taps elsewhere in use within the household. A major disadvantage of electrical showers is that the control knob just permits the alternative of heats at less pressure, or lower temperature levels at a higher pressure. This is problematic in the winter season when the spray is typically weak and the mains water is colder. However, this issue is dealt with in some designs which are available with a winter/summer setting.
Method
Depending on the kind of shower you wish to set up, the shower head need to either be fitted in order to avoid its contact with the water in the bath below or the base tray, or it must have a check valve.
Before starting, it is recommended to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to prepare the pipe-work involved. Additionally, the drainage system to remove the drainage will require to be planned. Both positions of the cable television path and the shower switch will likewise need to be thought about if a rapid or electrical shower system is being installed.
Use the guideline guide offered with the shower unit to fit the shower control.
Before fitting the pipes that will provide the water to the shower system, it is important to cut off the supply of water. In order to safeguard the pipes, they must be given a waterproof covering and likewise fitted with isolating valves. The pipelines can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the overall look.
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Connect the primary shower control to the pipelines that will be providing the water (This may need a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the supply of water and test the pipelines for any leakages, as some might need tightening.
If you are installing an electrical shower, remember to switch off the electrical power supply before making any electrical connections. Once these connections have been made (there ought to be guidance within the instruction manual), the power supply can be switched back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Match Your Shower
The cold water reservoir can be raised to a higher height (sometimes just 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wooden support underneath it-- perhaps made up of struts and blockboards. If you choose this choice, the main and distribution pipes will also have to be raised to satisfy the new height of the reservoir.
Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is chosen, it needs to be connected into the power supply in order to operate.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to use 15mm size supply pipes, and make the go to the shower as short and straight as possible so regarding keep maximum pressure and minimise heat loss. Additionally, by minimising using elbows for pipe corners, you can decrease the resistance in the flow of the supply of water. You can attain this by flexing the pipelines instead.
Most Common Mistakes
# Breaching or neglecting regional code restrictions.
# Utilizing pipes that are too small.
# Attaching copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting between the two.
# Not utilizing tape or pipe compound at threaded joints.
# Not leveling your fixtures when installing them.
# Not setting up an air space filling for fixtures.
# Cutting supply stub outs too brief to set up the shutoff valves onto after the completed wall is in place.
# Not appropriately lining up tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Requiring the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will trigger a leak.)
# When turning the water back on in your home, always run the outdoors pipe valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can trigger issues in your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.